Research Progress On The Application Of Cistanche Tubulosa in Cosmetics

Abstract: The research progress of Cistanche Tubulosa in cosmetics was reviewed. The main active components of Cistanche Tubulosa, including phenylethanoid glycosides, polysaccharides, etc., were introduced, and the differences of the main active components of Cistanche Tubulosa under different conditions were clarified by reviewing the main active components of different species, different origins, different harvesting periods and different hosts. This paper focuses on an overview of the beauty and skincare mechanism of Cistanche and its efficacy in cosmetics, including whitening, anti-aging, sunscreen, antibacterial, and moisturizing. This paper expounds on the application status of Cistanche Tubulosa in cosmetic raw materials and cosmetics in recent years and analyzes the development defects and technical deficiencies of Cistanche Tubulosa in cosmetics as a cosmetic raw material. Finally, the future research direction of Cistanche in the field of cosmetics is pointed out.

Keywords: cosmetics; Cistanche Tubulosa; application

Cistanche Tubulosa has been used in my country for more than 2,000 years. Its taste is sweet, salty, and warm in nature, and is known as "desert ginseng" and "Chinese fairy grass" [1]. Cistanche is rich in a variety of active ingredients and has health and beauty benefits. The records of the ancients on the health and beauty of Cistanche include: "long-term wear to lighten the body", "moisten the five internal organs, grow muscles", "benefit the marrow, brighten the color, prolong the life", "replenish the essence, the face is black, the fatigue is injured" and so on. In recent years, the development and application of Cistanche in the field of cosmetics has been gradually carried out, and relevant scientific studies have shown that it has good effects in whitening, anti-aging, sunscreen, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing and radiation protection. This article reviews the main active components of Cistanche Tubulosa, the mechanism of beauty and skin care, the efficacy in cosmetics and the application status, and provides a certain theoretical basis for the further application of Cistanche Tubulosa in cosmetics.

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1 The main active ingredients of Cistanche

The active components of Cistanche contain both volatile components and more than 100 isolated non-volatile components, including phenethyl glycosides, polysaccharides, oligosaccharides, lignans, iridoids, flavonoids, alkaloids , amino acids, trace elements, etc. Phenyl ethanol glycosides and polysaccharides are the main active ingredients that have been studied in depth, and have significant pharmacological effects such as neuroprotection, immune regulation, and antioxidant [1]. At present, a total of 70 phenylethanoid glycosides have been isolated from Cistanche Tubulosa, among which echinacoside and verbascoside are the key phenylethanoid glycoside compounds for measuring the quality standard of Cistanche [2]. The structural formulas of echinacoside and verbascoside are shown in Figure 1. The polysaccharides isolated from Cistanche Tubulosa include cisstan A, CDA-1A, CDA-3B, CDP-4, ACDP-2, SPA, etc., mainly composed of monosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, rhamnose, arabinose, and fructose [3] ]. Studies have shown that factors such as different species and different origins will affect the content of active components such as phenylethanoid glycosides and polysaccharides in Cistanche Tubulosa.

Fig.1  Structure of echinacoside and acteoside

1.1  Differences in active components of different species of Cistanche

There are about 20 species of Cistanche, and there are 4 species and 1 variety in China, namely Cistanche (also known as Cistanche Deserticola, Cistanche Tubulosa Y. C. Ma),  C. salsa (C. salsa) , C. A. Mey.) G. Beck), C. sinensis G. Beck and C. salsa var. albiflora P. F. Tu et Z. C. Lou [4].

Tu Pengfei et al. [5] conducted a qualitative analysis of the phenethyl glycosides contained in five species of Cistanche Tubulosa in my country, and conducted a quantitative analysis of echinacoside and verbascoside. The results of qualitative analysis showed that the phenethyl glycosides of Cistanche Tubulosa, Cistanche tubeflower, Cistanche salina and Cistanche salina were similar, while the difference was larger in Cistanche sand. Quantitative analysis results showed that the contents of echinacoside and verbascoside in the five species of Cistanche were different, and the content of Cistanche salina was the highest, and the content of Cistanche Tubulosa was the lowest.

1.2 Differences in active components of Cistanche from different origins

Traditional Chinese medicine is known as "authentic", and the active ingredients of traditional Chinese medicine in different origins have certain differences. Liu Xiong et al. [6] determined the echinacoside content of Cistanche Tubulosa in four production areas of Gansu Zhangye, Gansu Jingyuan, Xinjiang, and Inner Mongolia, and found that the mass fraction of echinacoside in Cistanche Tubulosa in the four production areas was 0.42%-1.52%. Among them, Zhangye has the highest content and Jingyuan has the lowest. Wang Guoping [7] found that the content of echinacoside in Cistanche pipiensis from different origins in southern Xinjiang was significantly different, with the mass fraction ranging from 2.78% to 11.93%, and the content of echinacoside in C. pipiensis from the same origin was also different. Xue Dejun et al. [8] compared and analyzed the polysaccharide content of Cistanche Tubulosa from different origins, and found that there are differences in the polysaccharide content of Cistanche Tubulosa from different origins, and the monosaccharide components that make up the polysaccharides are also different.

1.2 Differences in active components of Cistanche from different origins

Traditional Chinese medicine is known as "authentic", and the active ingredients of traditional Chinese medicine in different origins have certain differences. Liu Xiong et al. [6] determined the content of echinacoside in 4 production areas of Gansu Zhangye, Gansu Jingyuan, Xinjiang, and Inner Mongolia, and found that the mass fraction of echinacoside in 4 production areas was between 0.42% and 1.52%. Among them, Zhangye has the highest content and Jingyuan has the lowest. Wang Guoping [7] found that the content of echinacoside in Cistanche pipiensis from different origins in southern Xinjiang was significantly different, with the mass fraction ranging from 2.78% to 11.93%, and the content of echinacoside in the cultivated and wild Cistanche pipiensis from the same origin was also different. Xue Dejun et al. [8] compared and analyzed the polysaccharide content of Cistanche Tubulosa from different origins, and found that there are differences in the polysaccharide content of Cistanche Tubulosa from different origins, and the monosaccharide components that make up the polysaccharides are also different.

2. Mechanism and efficacy of cistanche on beauty and skin care

Studies have shown that Cistanche not only has a wide range of pharmacological effects, but also has good effects in skin improvement and beauty.

2.1  Whitening of Cistanche

There is a saying in Asia that "one white hide a hundred ugliness", fair, smooth and delicate skin has always been the goal pursued by oriental women. Therefore, the research and development of whitening agents has always been a key topic in the industry. At present, the research and development of whitening agents is mainly dominated by the inhibition of tyrosinase activity [13]. Compounds containing benzene ring or phenolic hydroxyl structure have potential whitening effect, such as the commonly used whitening agent arbutin, which can exert a whitening effect by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase.

The main active component of Cistanche Tubulosa is phenethyl glucoside, which is a kind of natural glycoside compound, which is formed by the connection of parent ribose group, phenylacrylic acid and part of phenylethyl alcohol through ester bond and glycosidic bond. Yang Jianhua et al. [14] found that total phenylethanol glycosides with a purity of 48.2% can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, and the effect on tyrosinase is a competitive reversible inhibition. Afterwards, Yang Jianhua's team[15] investigated the inhibitory effect of 87.6% phenylethyl alcohol total glycosides on tyrosinase activity and melanin production in human epidermal melanocytes. The results showed that the inhibitory effect of total phenylethanol glycosides on tyrosinase was better than that of arbutin, and its IC50 was 716.51 µg/mL.

Further research found that 400 µg/mL of total phenylethyl alcohol glycosides can significantly inhibit the formation of melanin, with an inhibition rate of 31.43%, which is comparable to arbutin. At the same time, by comparing the inhibitory effects of 10 phenethyl glycoside compounds on melanin production alone, it was found that their inhibitory ability was related to the number of phenolic hydroxyl groups and aglycones, the position of phenolic hydroxyl groups, steric hindrance, and the substituents on the parent ribosyl sugar aldehyde group. related. In addition, Yang Jianhua's team solved the problems of poor solubility and transdermal absorption of phenethyl glycosides by using microemulsion technology [16] and transfer body technology [17], providing guidance for the application of phenethyl glycosides in whitening cosmetics. Yang et al. [18] also found that the Cistanche Tubulosa extract had a strong inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity, and the 10 mg/mL Cistanche Tubulosa extract had a high inhibition rate of 78.5% on tyrosinase activity.

2.2  Anti-aging of Cistanche

Aging is one of the most fundamental laws of nature in the biological world, a gradual process by which all individuals will experience functional and organic decline over time. Skin aging develops simultaneously with body aging. With the deepening of people's understanding of the mechanism of skin aging, there are currently more than 30 theories on the mechanism of skin aging [19]. The role of traditional Chinese medicine in delaying skin aging is mainly reflected in scavenging free radicals and repairing collagen. YANG et al [18] found that Cistanche Tubulosa extract can scavenge DPPH free radicals and has antioxidant capacity. At the same time, Cistanche Tubulosa extract can significantly reduce the expression levels of collagenase and elastase mRNA, and inhibit the activities of collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase, and has the effect of delaying skin aging. Studies have shown that the active components of Cistanche Tubulosa, such as phenylethanoid glycosides and polysaccharides, have certain effects on delaying skin aging. The aging pathways corresponding to different active components of Cistanche Tubulosa are shown in Table 1.

Active constituents of Cistanche Tubulosa and its anti-aging action pathway

Phenylethanol glycosides:

①Scavenge hydroxyl radicals and superoxide anion radicals, reduce the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), and reduce ROS damage[20,21];

②Increase the activities of glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT), reduce the content of malondialdehyde (MDA), and reduce lipid peroxidation production and accumulation of substances (LPO) [21,22];

③ Increase the content of hydroxyproline and promote collagen production [22]; ④ Regulate immune cells such as macrophages, T cells, and NK cells, and affect interleukin-2 (IL-2), interleukin-6 (IL-6) -6), the production and release of cytokines such as tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), improve the immune capacity of the body, and delay cell senescence [23,24];

⑤Induce the gene expression of heme oxidase 1 (HMOX1) in keratinocytes by regulating the activities of NRF2 and RACH1 transcription factors, stimulate endogenous defense mechanisms, and enhance cell growth.

Cell protection ability, reduce skin aging and oxidative stress damage [25].

polysaccharide

①Antioxidative effect, scavenge DPPH free radicals, hydroxyl free radicals and A BTS free radicals [26], enhance the activity of SOD, CAT, GSH-Px in the skin, reduce the content of MDA and lipofuscin, and reduce skin oxidative damage [27] ];

②Increase skin hydroxyproline content and enhance skin elasticity [28];

③ Inhibit the non-enzymatic glycation reaction and reduce the production of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) [29];

④Promote the proliferation of lymphocytes, enhance the activity of macrophages, and enhance the immunity of the body [30].

other

D-mannitol can increase the content of hydroxyproline in the skin and reverse the LPO/SOD activity of aged rats to normal adult rats [28]; flavonoids and phenols have significant antioxidant effects [31].

2.3  Sun protection of Cistanche

With the deepening of the research on skin damage caused by light, people's awareness of sun protection continues to increase. However, the sunscreen agents in the sunscreen cosmetics currently on the market, including physical sunscreen agents and chemical sunscreen agents, all have certain hazards and are difficult to meet people's needs.

Broad-spectrum, safe and natural plant sunscreens have become a hot research topic. The main active component of Cistanche Tubulosa has multiple benzene rings and conjugated structures in its molecule, phenethyl glucoside. Studies have found that [32], phenethyl glucoside has strong absorption at 280-380 nm, and can be used as a natural sunscreen to alleviate the effects of ultraviolet rays on the skin. s damage. Sunscreens with 1% or 2% phenylethanoid added had no adverse reactions, and had good stability and photoprotection. FACINO et al [33] found that echinacea can protect the skin from UVA/UVB-induced oxidative stress damage, scavenge free radicals, and prevent collagen degradation. ZHANG et al. [34] used UVB irradiation mouse skin injury model and human immortalized epidermal cell (HaCaT) injury model to further study the photoprotective effect and potential mechanism of echinacoside on UVB-induced skin injury. The experimental results in mice show that external application of echinacoside cream can significantly improve the skin lesions of mice caused by UVB, including edema, roughness, erythema, ulceration, wrinkles, epidermal thickening, and dermal tissue disorder, etc. It was positively correlated with the content of echinacea. The results of HaCaT cell experiments showed that echinacoside had a significant protective effect on UVB-induced DNA damage and apoptosis. Echinacea can increase the activity of SOD, CAT, GSH-Px in cells, reduce the content of MDA and ROS, exert antioxidant effect, reduce oxidative damage of cells, prevent DNA fragmentation, and inhibit cell apoptosis; Chrysanthemum glycosides can down-regulate the expression of ATM/Rad3-related protein (ATR), Chk1, p53, caspase (Caspase-3), polyadenosine diphosphate ribose polymerase (PARP) in cells, reduce apoptosis, and reduce cell apoptosis. Up-regulates the expression of XPA protein and promotes DNA repair.

AVILA et al[35] studied the photoprotective effect of verbascoside, and found that the protective effect of verbascoside on VB-induced apoptosis was better than that of the sunscreen ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and the SPF value determined by the guinea pig model was 4 times more than ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. In conclusion, the phenylethanoid glycosides of Cistanche Tubulosa can not only absorb ultraviolet rays, but also have the functions of anti-oxidation, repair DNA damage and reduce cell apoptosis, and have potential application value in sunscreen cosmetics.

2.4  Antibacterial of Cistanche

Cosmetics are rich in nutrients such as oil, water, and protein, which are suitable for the growth and reproduction of microorganisms. Therefore, a certain amount of preservatives should be added to cosmetics to prevent spoilage. Compared with the commonly used chemically synthesized preservatives, traditional Chinese medicine preservatives have many advantages such as low toxicity, high safety, and natural origin, and are more popular with consumers.

Cistanche has a good antibacterial effect. Wang Xiaoqin et al. [36] found that the polysaccharides of Cistanche Tubulosa had a certain inhibitory effect on the growth of Tetrasars, Escherichia coli, Bacillus subtilis, Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Penicillium citrinum. Du Rui et al. [37] found that Cistanche decoction also had a significant inhibitory effect on Staphylococcus aureus. NAJEEB et al. [38] studied the antibacterial (Salmonella typhi, Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus pneumoniae, Klebsiella pneumoniae, Proteus mirabilis, and Escherichia coli) and antifungal (Aspergillus fumigatus, Aspergillus niger, and Aspergillus flavus) activities, it was found that different extracts of Cistanche pipiens had different antibacterial effect, which may be related to the different active ingredients contained in different extracts.

2.5 Moisturizing of Cistanche

Moisturizing is the basic requirement of skincare, and it is also an important condition to ensure skin health and delay aging. When the water content of the stratum corneum is maintained at 10% to 20%, the skin is in the most ideal physiological state, soft, plump, shiny and elastic; when it is less than 10%, the skin condition becomes worse, dry, rough, and long-lasting. Dull, wrinkled appearance. External use of moisturizing cosmetics can increase the water content of the stratum corneum, reduce water loss, and maintain the normal function of the skin barrier.

Studies have shown [39] that the Cistanche Tubulosa extract has excellent water-holding capacity. After the skin is coated with 30% Cistanche Tubulosa alcohol extract, the evaporation of water can be significantly reduced, which can be used in moisturizing cosmetics. Fan Qianwen et al. [40] invented a bulb extract of Cistanche Tubulosa containing an oligosaccharide mixture, and observed the levels of epidermal cells expressing involucrin, aquaporin (AQP-3), and hyaluronic acid receptor CD44 protein by fluorescent labeling. Then judge the water-locking performance of the extract. The results showed that the Cistanche bulb extract could significantly increase the expression levels of three proteins in keratinocytes, improve the water-locking capacity of the epidermis itself, and bring long-term moisturizing effect. At the same time, the mannitol, betaine and allantoin components contained in Cistanche are all classic moisturizing ingredients, which also indicates that Cistanche has a moisturizing effect.

2.6  Radiation protection of Cistanche

All objects in nature, as long as the temperature is above the absolute temperature of zero, will constantly transmit heat in the form of electromagnetic waves. This way of transmitting energy is called radiation. Radiation damages the skin, immune system, nervous system, hematopoietic system, etc., and even causes cancer and death. Natural radiation protection active ingredients have become a current research hotspot.

Studies have found that [41], Cistanche Tubulosa has a strong protective effect on 60Coγ-ray radiation damage, and can improve the immune function of radiation-injured mice. The mechanism may be to scavenge free radicals directly or indirectly and reduce the production of lipid peroxides. Related to the protection of immune organs, cells and molecules. YANG et al. [42] found that Verbasin can protect skin fibroblasts from x-ray damage and inhibit fibroblast apoptosis by scavenging ROS, reducing Bax/Bcl-2 ratio, down-regulating procaspase-3 activity, and regulating MAPK signaling pathway. Death.

Application status in cosmetics of Cistanche

With the increasing recognition of traditional Chinese medicine culture in the world, "Chinese medicine cosmetics" known as "natural, safe and effective" have become the focus of general attention in the industry and are favored by consumers. Cistanche has various functions such as whitening, anti-aging, sun protection, moisturizing, etc., and it has been used in cosmetics to some extent. Zhao Yi et al. [43] disclosed a whitening and anti-aging cosmetic containing Cistanche extract and its preparation method. Cosmetics containing Cistanche extract can enhance skin elasticity, reduce skin melanin content, and improve skin brightness. The patented ingredient "Wecisstanche Kangka"[45] added to Wecistanche Bio-Tech series products is refined from 3 traditional Chinese medicines: Cistanche, Astragalus and Ginseng, which can prevent skin aging, especially photoaging; a variety of functional raw materials developed by Wecistanche Bio-Tech Both contain Cistanche extract. For example, the patented moisturizing raw material "Cistanche Extract Powder #5"[44], through the "low temperature and constant time" extraction technology, extracts the natural macromolecular polysaccharides of four kinds of plants: peach gum, Dendrobium officinale, Tremella, and Cistanche, forming a plant with a spatial network structure. Polysaccharide protective film, can make the skin soft and smooth. Another example is the anti-aging raw material "Cordyceps Huiqing Jing Extract" Nutri-Boost, which scientifically combines four traditional Chinese medicines, Cordyceps sinensis, Matsuri, Dendrobium and Cistanche, which can effectively remove free radicals and resist oxidative damage to the skin. . Nutri-Boost has been applied to DR PLANT Cordyceps sinensis revitalizing and nourishing essence, which can replenish multiple nutrients to the skin and rejuvenate the skin. Shanghai Jahwa United Co., Ltd.'s brands Herborist and Gaofu also contain Cistanche extract, and Gaofu Hengshi Moisturizing Multi-Effect Moisturizing Mask is formulated with 4 traditional Chinese medicines including Cistanche, Astragalus, Snow Lotus and Ophiopogon japonicus. The star moisturizing ingredient "Silk Road Water Source". From the application status of Cistanche in cosmetics, it can be seen that Cistanche has a wide range of application value in cosmetics by virtue of the natural advantages of traditional Chinese medicine.

Cistanche Tubulosa, as a precious traditional Chinese medicine for longevity and beauty, has many functions such as whitening, anti-aging, sun protection, bacteriostasis, moisturizing and radiation protection, and has been used in cosmetics. Although  Cistanche has certain applications in cosmetics, the research on the active ingredients and mechanism of action of Cistanche is still insufficient. In the future, the research direction of  Cistanche as a raw material for traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics can start from the following aspects:

① The main active components of Cistanche are greatly affected by factors such as species and origin.

The development of raw materials should pay attention to the control and industrial application of its quality standards;

② Cistanche Tubulosa has a variety of skin care effects, but the research data are mostly obtained from in vitro experiments, and human data needs to be supplemented; The application of sunscreen and other effects is less. Guided by the theory of traditional Chinese medicine and combined with modern science and technology, the single and compound application of Cistanche is worthy of in-depth and systematic research.

To sum up, Cistanche has a variety of skin care effects, which is worthy of further research by scholars to open up a broader world for its application in cosmetics.

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