Trends in The Use Of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics 2

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2.2.6.Theobroma cacao

Theobroma cacao (cocoa) is part of the Sterculiaceae family, and its nutritional and medicinal purposes are documented since the Mayan and Aztec civilizations [61]

Cocoa beans, which are the raw material of cocoa butter, contain approximately 50% of lipids. The lipid fraction contains mainly triglyceride molecules such as palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, and linoleic acid1 [32,62]. Cocoa beans also contain a relevant polyphenol concentration, which is why in 2012, cocoa powder was considered one of their greatest sources by the European Food Safety Authority [63]. Flavonoids are the main polyphenols from cocoa beans, including catechin, epicatechin, procyanidin B1, procyanidin B2, and procyanidin C1 [64]. cistanche cholesterol Xanthine derivatives, caffeine, and theobromine are also important components of cocoa beans, and they contribute to their antioxidant action [65]. The alkaloid theobromine has been shown to prevent photodamage in hairless mice exposed to solar-simulated ultraviolet irradiation, by reducing wrinkles formation, dermal connective tissue alteration, and collagen accumulation. One study also suggested that xanthine derivatives prevent neutrophil infiltration caused by UV irradiation, supporting a critical role for theobromine in the dermal protective action exhibited by cocoa [61]. The sparse use of "Theobroma cacao seed butter" in 2011, possibly as emollient, ceased in 2018. However, "Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed extract" started to appear in anti-aging products during the later year, which was possibly due to its recent application against the blue light effect. This ingredient contains cocoa peptides, which were shown in vitro studies to act during blue light stress by decreasing reactive oxygen species and maintaining opsin photoreceptors while increasing collagen I, fibrillin-1, and syndecan-4[66].

2.2.7.Calendula officinalis

Calendula officinalis, also known as marigold, belongs to the Compositae family. The flower extract is rich in active compounds including terpenoids, carotenoids, flavonoids (the flavonols quercetin, rutin, narcissism, isorhamnetin, kaempferol), and volatile oils [67].

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The antioxidant and antimicrobial activities from a"Calendula officinalis extract"in vitro have been demonstrated [68-70].

A single-blind study with placebo control was performed using an emulsion containing marigold extract applied over a period of 8 weeks. This formulation showed the ability to induce skin tightness (also known as skin firming or skin lifting effect), while increasing its hydration. However, it did not present a significant effect on skin elasticity [71]. The same group performed another single-blinded placebo-controlled study that showed that the formulation containing marigold extract was able to decrease skin erythema and reduce transepidermal water loss(TEWL), which is a parameter that is linked to skin barrier function [72]. cistanche deserticola side effects, For this reason, the marigold extract has been proposed as an anti-pollution ingredient [73].

Some of these studies do not specify which part of the plant was used to prepare the extract, although the evidence suggests that flower extract is the most commonly used for cosmetic applications [67,74]. Similar to several other members of the Compositae family, marigold is known to cause allergic contact dermatitis, which may be a limitation for its use in cosmetic products[75].

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Although the use of "Calendula officinalis flower extract"increased from 2011 to 2018 in anti-aging products, its efficacy in this regard remains unknown.

2.2.8.Limnanthes alba

Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) is abundant in the US states of Oregon and California, and it belongs to the Limnanthaceae family [76]. Its seed oil is richer in monounsaturated fatty acids than olive oil, being also a rich source of omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. In fact, meadowfoam is known to be the richest botanical source of docosahexaenoic acid (DHA)[15]. DHA is a key precursor of acetylcholine, being proposed to activate contractile fibers and increase skin firmness[7]. This oil has a significant antioxidant action, which is attributed to its fatty acid profile but also to its tocopherol content [78]. More recently, an in vitro study showed that two meadowfoam glucosinolate derivatives found in seedmeal (a waste product from the oilseed industry) are able to ameliorate UVB-induced DNA damage, modulate proliferation, and inhibit MMP expression in the skin microenvironment [76]. One split-face, prospective, double-blinded, controlled clinical trial was conducted with a cosmetic containing meadowfoam and onion preparations. cistanche dosage reddit After 12 weeks, there was a very significant reduction in tactile roughness, skin clarity, fine lines and wrinkles. However, the fact that this product contained several botanical preparations does not allow drawing any conclusions about the role of meadowfoam extract [79].

"Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil" use has grown in 2018. However, the existing evidence is not enough to establish its efficacy as an anti-aging ingredient.

2.2.9.Glycyrrhizaglabra

Glycyrrhiza glabra is often described as a medicinal plant, and it is originally from the former Mesopotamia in Middle East [80]. In 2011, only products containing the extract obtained from leaves were found. Plant leaves contain carotenoids, such as lutein and β-carotene, but also dihydrostilbenes, which were first found in this plant, and flavonoids, such as glabranin, licoflavanone, pinocembrin, and wighteone [81]. Both water-holding and permeability barrier functions in the stratum corneum (SC) are essential for keeping skin moisture. Intercellular lipids in stratum corneum, which are composed mainly of cholesterol, fatty acids, and ceramides, play a crucial role in maintaining the function of SC. One study showed that licorice leaf extract not only promoted an increased hyaluronan production of mRNA expression levels of serine palmitoyl transferase and sphingomyelinase in vitro, which are involved in ceramide biosynthesis from keratinocytes, but it also promoted the syntheses of ceramides both in a 3D skin model and in human skin. Furthermore, licorice leaf extract increased the expression of mRNA for 3-hidroxi-3-methyl-glutaric-coenzyme A reductase, which is related to cholesterol biosynthesis—an essential component of the skin barrier. Together, these effects are proposed to reduce the dehydration that is characteristic for skin aging [82].

Contrary to 2011, in 2018, only cosmetic products containing root extract were found. The ethanol preparation from licorice showed a high antioxidant activity by ROS scavenging, hydrogen-donating, metalion chelating, mitochondrial anti-lipid peroxidative and reducing abilities. cistanche extract benefits This was attributed to its high content in phenolic components, from which we highlight glycyrrhizin. Glycyrrhizin, the main constituent of licorice, is a gly-cyrrhetinic acid conjugate with two molecules of glucuronic acid [14]. Glycyrhetinic acid, also known as enoxolone, is commonly used as a soothing agent in cosmetic products [83] However, the isoflavonoid glabridin is the main compound from the hydrophobic fraction of licorice extract, and it has been shovwn to scavenge ROS and inhibit UVB-induced tyrosinase both in vitro and in vivo without affecting DNA synthesis [84,85]. Nonetheless, the reduced skin penetration and instability constrains the application of glabridin in cosmetic products [86]. Two clinical studies were found regarding cosmetic products containing glabridin in their composition. However, since glabridin was not the only active ingredient in these products, it is impossible to draw any conclusion regarding its effectiveness [87,88]. There are also flavonoids in licorice extract that act on tyrosinase inhibition, such as isoliquiritigenin, licuraside, isoliquiritin, and licochalcone A [14]. Liquirtin, on the other hand is a flavonoid that does not act on tyrosinase but causes depigmentation mainly by dispersing melanin. One study showed that the topical application of a cream containing 2% and 4% liquirtin for four weeks was effective for the treatment of melasma, although both creams had a significantly lower efficacy than hydroquinone [89].

Overall, licorice extract was considered the depigmenting ingredient with the fewest side effects [90]. There is one clinical study including 12 individuals that tested the skin-lightening effect from the application of three creams containing 10,20,and 40% licorice extract in different testing areas. There was a significant decrease in skin pigmentation after the use of all formulations, but their effectiveness was not significantly different with increasing concentrations [91]. Another small study evaluated the effects of a formulation containing 1% licorice extract on skin melanin and skin erythema. Licorice extract signifi-cantly affected skin melanin content but not skin erythema, compared with placebo [92].

Considering the evolution from the use of licorice plant in cosmetic products, it seems that it has decreased from 2011 to 2018, even though the industry is moving toward the use of the plant extract that presents the soundest scientific evidence, namely Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

2.2.10.Acacia decurrens

Acacia decurrens (black wattle) belong to the Fabaceae family [93]. The lipids from the flower extract are the most used preparation in cosmetic products, providing a skin-conditioning and occlusive action [94].“Acacia decurrens flower wax”, which only was found in cosmetic formulations from 2018, contains an association of free fatty alcohols (7%), saturated monoesters(22%), and a large amount of odd-numbered hydrocarbon chains (27%, C27-C33)[94,95]. No data connecting this preparation to an anti-aging benefit were found.

2.3.Botanicals' Anti-Aging Mechanisms

After analyzing the literature regarding each botanical preparation, the ingredients whose anti-aging mechanisms are documented in the scientific literature were categorized and quantified (Figure 2).

Overall, there was an increase in the use of botanicals with proven anti-aging action from 2011 to 2018. It is noticeable that the most used categories are the same in both years. Botanicals with DNA-protecting action were used more frequently, followed by enzyme-inhibiting ingredients and those with inflammation-reducing action. cistanche genghis khan It is also worth mentioning the emergence of ingredients that alter hormone balance.

The use of botanical ingredients that activate cell receptors and modulate a metabolic pathway appears to be less relevant. Compared with a similar study based on the American market in 2010, only "Vitis vinifera grape seed extract" and "Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract" were mentioned in both studies [13].

Evidence for the efficacy and mechanism of action from botanical ingredients is sparse, and it often lacks relevance. In addition, the multitude of factors affecting botanical preparations composition, from plantation to the extraction method, ads an even greater complexity to this discussion. It is not easy for formulators to choose the most appropriate botanical ingredients for the development of cosmetic products, which ultimately may impact a product's performance. This is not only detrimental to the consumer but also to the manufacturer, which may find it harder to generate and substantiate appealing claims.

3. Materials and Methods

3.1.Data Collection

Data were collected from anti-aging cosmetic products from multination brands marketed in pharmacies and para pharmacies in Portugal. Anti-aging cosmetics were included in the study if they exhibited in the label one of the following words: anti-wrinkle(s); anti-age/anti-aging; wrinkles repair; regenerator; aging; firming. All the information available on the product's label was collected, along with the information available on the menu!factures websites. The data collection started in 2011 and was updated with products launched in 2018 or whose composition has been renewed that year, in order to avoid duplicate product analysis and to reflect the market trends. Cosmetics for application on the face, neck, and eye contour were included, comprising more than 40 multi-tonal brands. Following these criteria, 280 products were selected, namely 177 and 103 respectively in 2011 and 2018.

3.2.Botanical Preparations Prevalence and Variety

The relative amount of cosmetic products containing anti-aging botanical preparations (expressed in percentage) and the variety of preparations used for each year were determined.

3.3.Top Botanical Species

Each botanical preparation was listed according to its INCI name and then classified according to the botanical's scientific name. The analysis focused on the ten botanical species (Plantae kingdom) with highest usage frequency among the selected products. The usage frequency for each botanical species was determined by the sum of the number of products containing that specific preparation in both years and then ranked in descending order.

3.4. Evidence for Botanicals Anti-Aging Efficacy

The preparations' composition and respective anti-aging benefits were searched on the following online databases: PubMed, Google Scholar, Scopus, Cochrane, and KOS-MET. Then, the botanical preparations that showed anti-aging activity in clinical trials were grouped according to their mechanisms of action, as described by Hyland Cronin and Zoe Draelos [13]. This classification system categorizes the anti-aging ingredients according to eight distinct mechanisms of action:"modify the skin barrier"(e.g, smooth skin scale, exfoliate skin scale), "enhance intercellular lipids"(e.g., cholesterol, triglycerides, essential fatty acids, ceramides, natural moisturizing factor),"activate cell receptors"(eg, retinoids),"protect cell DNA"(e.g, antioxidants, sunscreens),"modulate a metabolic pathway"(e.g, peptides), "activate or inhibit enzymes"(e.g, skin-lightening agents),"reduce inflammation”(e.g, botanic antioxidants, plant sterols), or“alter hormone balance”(soy phytoestrogens). Botanicals that were found to solely modify the skin barrier and/or enhance intercellular lipids were not considered anti-aging active ingredients. Those categories are not specific to the anti-aging segment, which is why these ingredients may be used at a given formulation because of their occlusive/emollient or viscosity modifying actions. Therefore, their inclusion as anti-aging active ingredients could bias this study.

4. Conclusions

The cosmetic industry is always evolving, and the competition together with the need to meet consumers' preferences requires constant product development and reformulation. Nature-derived ingredients are increasingly popular. The prevalence of botanical preparations in the composition of anti-aging products has increased from 2011 to 2018. During this period, Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja have remained in the pole positions. These three plant species, together with Theobroma cacao and Glycyrrhiza glabra, have shown to be effective as anti-aging active ingredients. These botanical preparations stand out for their content in compounds with interest for anti-aging cosmetics, and their efficacy has been shown both in vitro and in vivo. It is noteworthy that all these preparations contain polyphenols, mostly flavonoids, but also stilbenes. Among the various flavonoid families, flavan-3-ols were the most frequently found in the top 10 botanical preparations, followed by proanthocyanidins, anthocyanins, flavonols, isoflavones, and tannins. On the other hand, botanical species such as Simmondsia Chinensis, Helianthus annuus, Calendula Officinalis, Limnanthes alba, and Acacia decurrens have insufficient or non-existing data supporting their use as anti-aging actives, and they are likely to be incorporated in formulations for their emollient or rheological-modifying properties.

Regarding the function of the botanical preparations studied, it is clear there is a preference for DNA-protecting ingredients, followed by ingredients that are able to activate or inactivate enzymes and inflammation-reducing ingredients. It is noteworthy that ingredients that alter hormone imbalance have reached the top 10 only in 2018, which may predict a trend for the coming years. In conclusion, despite the widespread use of botanical ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics, only a few preparations were studied for their anti-aging effectiveness, mainly using in vitro tests. In vivo randomized controlled trials are needed to strengthen the evidence for the use of botanicals as anti-aging active ingredients.

5. Limitations

Over the period of seven years, the noticed changes in the use of botanical preparations could have been influenced by the methodology used, since data collection in 2018 has focused only on new and renewed formulations, which might have resulted in the study of different brands across the years.

In addition, botanical preparations' properties are related to a wide variety of environmental factors and maturation degrees, as well as extraction methods. Even though some botanicals possessed a well-documented anti-aging activity, the efficacy of the final product also depends on the formulation. Several variables can greatly affect the efficacy of formulations containing botanical active ingredients such as their concentration and release, the presence of penetration enhancers, or special skin delivery systems, but also botanical preparations' stability and their interaction with other ingredients of the formulation.

This article is extracted from Molecules 2021, 26, 3584. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26123584 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/molecules