Terrestrial Microorganisms: Cell Factories Of Bioactive Molecules With Skin Protecting Applications Part 4

May 04, 2023

8. Conclusions

Naturally derived molecules are traditionally used in skin protection products (Table 1, CosIng inventory). Consequently, natural compounds isolated and/or produced using biotechnological tools from microorganisms are already used for dermatologic purposes in topical cosmetic formulations. These products can aesthetically improve the skin’s appearance but can also prevent and/or treat age-related skin disorders. Beyond the “established” molecules, there are several small molecules and/or enzymes derived from microorganisms that have great potential to be used in cosmetics or cosmeceutical formulations (Table 1).

According to relevant studies,cistanche is a common herb that is known as "the miracle herb that prolongs life". Its main component is cistanoside, which has various effects such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immune function promotion. The mechanism between cistanche and skin whitening lies in the antioxidant effect of cistanche glycosides. Melanin in human skin is produced by the oxidation of tyrosine catalyzed by tyrosinase, and the oxidation reaction requires the participation of oxygen, so the oxygen-free radicals in the body become an important factor affecting melanin production. Cistanche contains cistanoside, which is an antioxidant and can reduce the generation of free radicals in the body, thus inhibiting melanin production.

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Interestingly, several biomolecules that are already included in the European Inventory of accepted cosmetic ingredients (CosIng inventory) [14] are registered for one of their biological activities but are used differently in cosmetic applications. A characteristic example is kojic acid, which is registered as an “antioxidant”, while the main application in cosmetics is its strong anti-tyrosinase activity, and thus its application as a skin whitening agent (Table 1).

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Considering the immense microbial biodiversity and microbial adaptation to virtually any environment on earth, it is to be expected that microbes represent an extraordinary inventory of highly diverse structural scaffolds of biomolecules with potential skin protective activities. Although research on the marine environment has started to match later than the terrestrial environment, we have several cases where cosmetic applications and patents are in favor of marine-derived microorganisms. As mentioned in the case of MAAs known for their photo-protective activity, they are included in several patents for natural UV filters. However, most of them were developed with microorganisms from marine environments (72.2%), while patents developed on terrestrial and freshwater microorganisms have not exceeded 21.4% and 2.4%, respectively [135]. This study reflects that to date, in some cases the terrestrial environment has been neglected.

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Overall, taking into consideration that most of the world’s microbial terrestrial biodiversity remains largely uninvestigated and that microorganisms offer a sustainable, relatively low-cost, and fast production process, we remain confident that shortly, systematic research will reveal additional microorganisms that can be used as cell factories for producing high added value biomolecules with applications in the cosmetic industry as active ingredients.
Author Contributions: All authors have contributed to the preparation of this article.
Funding: This work has been financially supported by the EU under the frame of the COSMETICS project (FP7-PEOPLE- Industry-Academia Partnerships and Pathways), Grant agreement No. 612276.

Conflicts of Interest: The authors declare no conflict of interest. 

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Abbreviations 

ABTS 2,20 -Azino-bis-3-ethylbenzthiazolin-6-sulphonic acid
CALB Candida antarctica lipase B
CAGR: compound annual growth rate
CDW cell dry weight
DPPH 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl
EPSs exopolysaccharides
HQ hydroquinone
LTA lipoteichoic acid
MAAs mycosporine-like amino acids
MIC minimum inhibitory concentration
γ-PGA poly- γ-glutamic acid
RNS reactive nitrogen species
ROS reactive oxygen species
SPFs sunscreen protection factors
SSR solar-simulated radiation
SOD superoxide dismutases
UVA ultraviolet A

UVB ultraviolet B

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