Trends in The Use Of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics Part 1

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Abstract: Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance of compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in the anti-aging products market in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parki, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.

Keywords: botanical; preparations; anti-aging; cosmetics; market

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1. Introduction

For thousands of years, naturally, derived ingredients have been used as raw materials for skin care products, and are derived from mineral, animal, or vegetable sources [1,2]. In the 21st century, the use of naturally derived ingredients is still a growing trend, which is possibly due to the influence of the internet and social media. From 2015 to 2019, the global"natural cosmetics" market has been expanding, with 10-11% annual growth. This market also represents a great opportunity for the cosmetic industry, since many consumers are willing to pay more for these products [34].

In 2011, approximately one-third of ingredients listed by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI system at the Personal Care Products Council were classified as"botanical extracts". Botanical ingredients may result from different processing methodologies of the same plant material, including plant extracts, expressed juices, tinctures, waxes, vegetable oils, lipids, plant carbohydrates, essential oils, as well as purified plant components, such as vitamins, antioxidants, and other substances with recognized biological activity [5]. The INCI name uses the Latin binomial indicating the part of the plant (e.g., root, leaf), and the extraction product (e.g., extract, oil, juice). It is noteworthy that not all these parameters are always indicated on the label of cosmetic products [6.]

Of all the components that can be found in botanical preparations for cosmetic use, polyphenols have gained increasing prominence due to the plethora of biological activities. Polyphenols were found to provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity after topical application, as well as an ability to inhibit the gene expression and activity of skin enzymes, such as hyaluronidase, and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) collagenase, and serine protease elastase [7].

Polyphenols are a large group of natural, synthetic, and semi-synthetic compounds, with at least one phenolic ring. Polyphenols are separated into some classes and various subclasses depending on the number of aromatic rings, namely phenolic acids, including hydroxybenzoic and cinnamic acids, flavonoids, and stilbenes, amongst others [8]. what is a cistanche Flavonoids are the major group of low molecular weight phenolic compounds and have the general structure of a 15-carbon skeleton, which consists of two phenyl rings(A and B)and a heterocyclic ring(C), comprising a large family that includes flavanols, flavonols, flavones, anthocyanidins, and isoflavones, amid others [9].

Parallel to the"natural" segment, the whole cosmetics market has been growing with the"anti-aging" segment holding a share of over 39.6% in 2015[10]. bioflavonoids Skin aging is an inevitable result of the cumulative consequences of a cell's chronological aging, but it is also exacerbated with the exposure to multiple environmental factors known as the skin aging exposome. These include radiation (ultraviolet, visible, and infrared), air pollution, tobacco smoke, poor nutrition, as well as sleep deprivation, stress, or the inadequate use of cosmetics [11]. Exposure to light sources such as the sun and artificial light seems to be particularly relevant, leading to a phenomenon called photoaging (Table 1)[12]. Blue light from the sun and electronic devices, also known as high energy visible light, is being proposed as an important factor for skin aging, especially regarding pigmentation [11]. The causes and consequences associated with chronologically and photoaged skin are summarized in Table 1.

In 2010, a study assessed the top 10 botanical ingredients in over-the-counter anti-aging creams in the United States of America. We are unaware of any similar work addressing any European cosmetics market [13].

Herein, this study reports the most commonly used botanical species in anti-aging cosmetics marketed in 2011 and 2018. A critical appraisal of their composition and the current scientific evidence that supports their anti-aging efficacy was also performed.

2. Results and Discussion

2.1. Botanical Preparations Prevalence and Variety

In 2011, 63.8%of anti-aging products contained botanical preparations while in 2018, 73.8% of products contained these ingredients. This corresponds to a 16%increase in a seven-year period, which is consistent with market growth trends [3].

The number of botanical species used in anti-aging cosmetic products per year was slightly higher in 2011, with 106 different species versus 96 in 2018. However,177 products were analyzed in 2011 compared with 103 products in 2018, which could have influenced this finding.

2.2.Top Botanical Species

The ten botanical species with greater prevalence are presented in Figure 1.

However, there are many different preparations for some botanical species, corresponding to the extraction of different parts of the plant and different extraction methods. Aside from the variables regarding the plant origin, these differences alone can lead to very diverse ingredients. buy cistanche Additionally, in some cases, the information found in the products' composition list is incomplete, and it does not allow identifying which part of the plant or extraction method were used. The information presented in the cosmetic product label was compiled regarding each botanical preparation and then categorized according to the botanical species (Table 2).

It was observed that nine of the ten most used botanical species occurred both in 2011 and 2018(Figure 1), which suggests these play an important role in the efficacy of the cosmetic product. It is also worth mentioning that aside from Glycyrrhiza glabra, there was an increase in the use of the Top 10 plant species in 2018 compared to 2011. This finding is consistent with our results regarding botanical preparations prevalence. Below, the scientific evidence supporting anti-aging efficacy regarding all botanical species from the top 10 is reported. The polyphenol composition from all botanical preparation is summarized in Table 3.

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2.2.1.Vitis vinifera

In 2011, Vitis vinifera (vine) was the most used botanical species, turning to third place in 2018. Of all the botanicals analyzed in this study, it is the one presenting the largest variety of preparations.

Grape and red wine are among the major dietary sources of stilbenes both in edible and non-edible plant tissues [22].

"Palmitoyl grapevine shoot extract" was the most used grape preparation in both years, although its use has decreased from 2011 to 2018. The composition of this palmitoylextract is unknown. However, after vine stems, shoots are the part of the plant that contains a greater resveratrol concentration [23]. Cis- and trans-resveratrol are abundant polyphenols in the aerial parts of the plant. They provide antioxidant activity and downregulate the expression and activity of ROS generating enzymes while increasing the expression of antioxidant enzymes. cistanch Resveratrol has been shown to control metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1)-mediated UVB-induced skin aging, apoptosis-induced skin aging, and inflammation-mediated complications called"inflammaging" in dermal fibroblasts [24]. cistanche Australia The topical application of resveratrol to SKH-1 hairless mice before UVB exposure also resulted in significant inhibition of skin edema, inflammation, and lipid peroxidation [25]. Grapevine shoot extracts are also known to contain multiple stilbenoids, such as trans-resveratrol, ampelopsin A, e-vinifera, r-vinifera, w-vinifera, pallidal, hopheaphenol, piceatannol, isohopeaphenol, and r2-vinifera [26]. Trans--Viniferin, a resveratrol oligomer, was shown to provide a greater tyrosinase inhibition effect when compared with resveratrol, arbutin, kojic, and ascorbic acids [27]. An in vitro study determined that grape shoot extract appeared to have significantly stronger antioxidant action than vitamin C or vitamin E on keratinocytes after HO, exposure [28]. An in vivo evaluation showed that a four-week twice-daily application of 1% Vitis vinifera shoot extract (also known as serpentine) serum provided a significant improvement in skin firmness, radiance, texture, and fine lines, and wrinkles [29].

From 2011 to 2018, the use of"Vitis vinifera(grape)seed oil"has decreased, while "Palmitoyl grape seed extract" and"Vitis vinifera seed extract" were only used in the later years (Table 2). The grape seed oil contains mainly linoleic acid in its fatty acid composition, which composes 66.0%to 75.3% of the total fatty acid amount. It also contains a higher vitamin E content than soybean and olive oils, which together with phenolic compounds such as catechins, epicatechins(flavan-3-ols), and procyanidin B1(proanthocyanidin) flavonoids, carotenoids, phenolic acids, and stilbenes provides an antioxidant activity that may be useful in anti-aging cosmetics. Grapeseed oil is used as an emollient in cosmetic products. It also has been shown to provide additional benefits to the skin such as antimicrobial activity and wound-healing promotion in rat models [30]. However, there is still lacking scientific evidence in that regard. Grape seed extracts are especially rich in proanthocyanidins, mainly B type procyanidins but also monomers and oligomers, which have been shown to be potent antioxidants and free radical scavengers, being more effective than either vitamin C or vitamin E. Grape seed extracts also contain catechin, epicatechin, and epicatechin gallate[13,31]. These preparations have shown a tyrosinase-inhibiting activity, being useful in anti-aging cosmetics [32]. A clinical study evaluated the effects on the human facial skin of a W/O cream containing a Muscat Hamburg black grape seed extract. This single-blinded randomized placebo-controlled study showed a significant result for skin whitening, moisturizing, and potential anti-aging effects[33]. The greater amount of evidence from the seed extracts compared to the oil may justify their increasing use [25,34]. In fact," Vitis vinifera seed extract" has been proposed as a cosmeceutical active ingredient and anti-pollution ingredient [13,35]. Nevertheless, the exact composition of the "Palmitoyl grape seed extract" remains unknown.

"Vitis vinifera (grape) fruit extract" was also used in 2011, but it has not found in 2018. Grape berries contain multiple antioxidants, such as vitamins C, E, carotenoids, and polyphenols [36]. In fact, they are considered one of the most important dietary fruit sources of bioactive polyphenols such as anthocyanins, flavonols, flavan-3-ols, tannins, and hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives, and stilbenes, such as resveratrol [28,37]. A large amount of these compounds is present in grape skin(especially in red-skinned varieties), seeds, and, to a lesser extent, pulp [37]. Vitamin C(ascorbic acid) is well known for its anti-aging effects on the skin, improving its resistance to UV exposure, minimizing hyperpigmentation, reducing wrinkle scores, and improving skin texture [38,39]. Vitamin E (tocopherol) is also used as an anti-aging active ingredient due to its ability to reduce erythema caused by UV exposure, roughness, sunburn, wrinkling, and skin pigmentation [15]. Melatonin was also found in berry skin from Italian and French grapes. This neurohormone is a biogenic indolamine that performs an important role in the regulation of circadian and seasonal rhythms, but it is also a proven free radical scavenger and broad-spectrum antioxidant. Contrary to vitamins C, E, or glutathione, which can be regenerated by redox reactions and may promote the formation of other oxidized species, melatonin seems to interact with free radicals by addition reactions, thus resulting in stable products that are antioxidants themselves [40]. A randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind study showed that the topical application of melatonin provides a protective effect against erythema induced by UV radiation from natural sunlight [41]. The clinical efficacy of topical melatonin as an anti-aging active ingredient remains unknown. However, a study comparing two day and night formulations containing melatonin with a non-treated control side showed an improvement in skin hydration and skin tonicity, with a clinical improvement in the aspect of wrinkles, as the instrumental results were not significant compared with baseline and control sides [42]. Although the grape juice may have a promising composition, studies demonstrating its efficacy for combating skin aging were not found. This lack of evidence could explain its reduced application in cosmetic products.

This article is extracted from Molecules 2021, 26, 3584. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26123584 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/molecules