Trends in The Use Of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics Part 2

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2.2.2.ButyrOSper1um1 parkii

Butyrospermum park(shea, or Vitellaria paradoxa)use has increased from 2011 to 2018, taking the first place as the most used botanical (Figure 1). Shea is mainly used for its butter, which consists of a solid fat extracted from mature shea fruit.

It contains 90% triglycerides(saponifiable fraction) and 10%non-triglycerides(un-saponifiable fraction). The main fatty acids found in shea are stearic, oleic, palmitic, linoleic, and arachidic acid, which provide moisturizing and barrier protective actions [43,44]. The unsaponifiable include antioxidants (oil-soluble tocopherols), triterpenes(e.g., Butyrospermum-mol), phenols, sterols, karate, allantoin, and polyphenols (mainly the catechin), which together have been shown to provide UV-B absorbing properties [45,46]. Shea butter has been shown to boost collagen production while inactivating proteases such as metalloprotease (e.g., collagenase) as well as serine protease(e.g., elastase)[45]. Two clinical studies showed that shea butter is able to reduce multiple signs of aging and prevent photo-aging [47].

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Aside from"Butyrospermum parkii(shea) butter", whose use almost tripled in 2018, one product containing"Butyrospermum parkii (shea)Butter Extract" was also found in 2018, which contains a higher bioactive fraction of shea butter triterpene esters [48]. The evidence regarding shea butter's advantages for skin aging may justify the increased use in anti-aging products from 2011 to 2018 as well as the development of differentiated preparations.

2.2.3. Glycine soja

In 2018, Glycine soja(soy) was the second most used botanical, with many parts of the plant being used in cosmetic products(Figure 1).Soy(Glycine max L.)belongs to the Fabaceae pea family and is native to southeastern Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese, and it started being planted in the US during World War Ⅱ[49].

"Glycine soja(soybean)oil"provides moisturizing and lubricating effects to skincare products. cistanche benefits Its composition consists of triglycerides of linoleic(54%), oleic (24%), linolenic (7%), and saturated fatty acids [50]. Soybean oil had a 6-fold increase in anti-aging products from 2011 to 2018, although no studies in the scientific literature demonstrate an anti-aging action.

Protein is the major constituent of the soybean (30 to 50 g/100g), with β-conglycinin (7S) and glycinin(11S)representing 65% to 80% of the total protein amount. cistanche cholesterol The whole soybean contains about 7 to 9% of protease inhibitors, mainly STI (Kunitz-type trypsin inhibitor)and soybean trypsin BBI (Bowman-Birk protease inhibitor)[51]. Non-denatured soybean preparations, containing STI and BBI, result in skin lightening demonstrated both in vitro and in vivo by reducing melanosomes phagocytosis thus preventing melanin transfer from keratinocytes [51,52].

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Soybean germ is the seed fraction with higher content of antioxidant and antiproliferative phytochemicals, such as soya saponins, tocopherols, and phytosterols. The germ may be6 to 10-fold more concentrated in total isoflavones than cotyledons (embryonic leaves)[53]. There is a pending patent regarding the use of soybean germ extract in combination with creatine, creatinine, or derivatives for stimulating collagen synthesis and reducing the signs of aging. However, no evidence of this action was found [54]. Soybean germ also contains relevant flavonoids such as genistein, equol, and daidzein isoflavones, which provide antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and estrogenic effects, as well as estrogenic lignans [15,51]. Isoflavones, and especially genistein, also provide a photoprotective effect. Soybean extracts showed to inhibit elastases while increasing skin elastin, collagen synthesis, and the glycosaminoglycans levels, especially hyaluronic acid (HA) in aging skin [49,51,55]. These effects have shown to provide a positive impact on photoaging in four double-blind controlled trials, which were performed with whole soy, soy milk, and soy isoflavones plus lignans [15]. Soy milk, soybean, and soy isoflavones, especially genistein, have been proposed as cosmetic active ingredients [35,56]."Soy isoflavones" and"Glycine soja(soybean) germ extract" were only used in 2018, which was possibly due to their anti-aging benefits. Although soy germ extract also contains isoflavones, its application as an anti-aging active ingredient is still inconclusive. "Hydrolyzed soy protein", which provides small peptides and isolated amino acids to the skin was only used in 2011. Its benefits in anti-aging cosmetics are not documented to

2.2.4. Simmondsia Chinensis

From 2011 to 2018, the use of Simmondsia Chinensis(jojoba, or Buxus Chinensis) also increased. Jojoba belongs to the Buxaceae family, and its oil is widely used in cosmetic formulas [32,57l. It contains a broad spectrum of fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic, linolenic, and arachidonic as well as triglycerides, which together have a composition that is similar to skin sebum [32]. Jojoba oil also provides an antioxidant activity due to its content in polyphenols such as tannins, as well as alkaloids, steroids, and glycosides [58]. The chemical identity of these compounds is not known. "Simmondsia Chinensis (jojoba)seed oil", found in 2011, seems to have been replaced by "Simmondsia Chinensis oil", which probably corresponds to the same preparation. Moreover, in 2018, we have also found"Jojoba esters" in several products. cistanche deserticola side effects However, their special interest in the application of anti-aging cosmetics is unknown.

2.2.5. Helianthus annuus

Helianthus annuus(sunflower) is also used in cosmetics for the fatty content of the seeds. Sunflower seed oil consists mainly of oleic and linoleic acids, presenting a higher concentration of the latter when compared to olive oil [57]. Linoleic acid is an agonist of the peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-alpha (PPAR-α), which enhances keratinocyte proliferation and lipid synthesis. cistanche extract benefits Thereby, the linoleic acid content is hypothesized as the main reason why sunflower oil has been shown to preserve stratum corneum integrity and improve hydration of the adult skin without inducing erythema [59]Sunflower oil also contains polyphenols such as caffeic, chlorogenic, and ferulic acids[60]. "Helianthus annus seed oil" is the most used sunflower preparation in both years, but in 2018, "Helianthus annus seed wax"(a product from sunflower oil winterization) was also documented. Aside from its moisturizing properties, no evidence of the interest of sunflower in anti-aging cosmetics was found. 2.2.6. Theobroma cacao (cocoa) is part of the Sterculiaceae family, and its nutritional and medicinal purposes are documented since the Mayan and Aztec civilizations [61].

Cocoa beans, which are the raw material of cocoa butter, contain approximately 50% of lipids. cistanche dosage reddit The lipid fraction contains mainly triglyceride molecules such as palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, and linoleic acid [32,62]. Cocoa beans also contain a relevant polyphenol concentration, which is why in 2012, cocoa powder was considered one of their greatest sources by the European Food Safety Authority [63]. Flavonoids are the main polyphenols from cocoa beans, including catechin, epicatechin, procyanidin B1, procyanidin B2, and procyanidin Cl [64]. Xanthine derivatives, caffeine, and theobromine are also important components of cocoa beans, and they contribute to their antioxidant action [65]. The alkaloid theobromine has been shown to prevent photodamage in hairless mice exposed to solar-simulated ultraviolet irradiation, by reducing wrinkles formation, dermal connective tissue alteration, and collagen accumulation. One study also suggested that xanthine derivatives prevent neutrophil infiltration caused by UV irradiation, supporting a critical role for theobromine in the dermal protective action exhibited by cocoa [61]. The sparse use of "Theobroma cacao seed butter" in2011, possibly as emollient, has ceased in 2018. However, "Theobroma cacao (cocoa)seed extract" started to appear in anti-aging products during the later year, which was possibly due to its recent application against the blue light effect. This ingredient contains cocoa peptides, which were shown in vitro studies to act during blue light stress by decreasing reactive oxygen species and maintaining opsin photoreceptors while increasing collagen I, fibrillin-1, and syndecan-4[66]. 2.2.7.Calendula officinalis

Calendula officinalis, also known as marigold, belongs to the Compositae family. The flower extract is rich in active compounds including terpenoids, carotenoids, flavonoids (the flavonols quercetin, rutin, narcissism, isorhamnetin, kaempferol), and volatile oils [67]. The antioxidant and antimicrobial activities from a"Calendula officinalis extract"in vitro have been demonstrated [68-70]. A single-blind study with a placebo control was performed using an emulsion containing marigold extract applied over a period of 8 weeks. This formulation showed the ability to induce skin tightness(also known as skin firming or skin lifting effect) while increasing its hydration. However, it did not present a significant effect on skin elasticity [71]. The same group performed another single-blinded placebo-controlled study that showed that the formulation containing marigold extract was able to decrease skin erythema and reduce transepidermal water loss(TEWL), which is a parameter that is linked to skin barrier function [72]. For this reason, the marigold extract has been proposed as an anti-pollution ingredient [73]. Some of these studies do not specify which part of the plant was used to prepare the extract, although the evidence suggests the flower extract is the most commonly used for cosmetic application [67,74]. Similar to several other members of the Compositae family, marigold is known to cause allergic contact dermatitis, which may be a limitation for its use in cosmetic products[75]. Although the use of "Calendula officinalis flower extract"increased from 2011 to 2018 in anti-aging products, its efficacy in this regard remains unknown.

2.2.8. Lim1anthes alba

Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam)is abundant in the US states of Oregon and California, and it belongs to the Limnanthaceae family[76]. Its seed oil is richer in monounsaturated fatty acids than olive oil, being also a rich source of omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. In fact, meadowfoam is known to be the richest botanical source of docosahexaenoic acid (DHA)[15]. DHA is a key precursor of acetylcholine, being proposed to activate contractile fibers and increase skin firmness [77]. This oil has a significant antioxidant action, which is attributed to its fatty acid profile but also to its tocopherol content [78]. More recently, an in vitro study showed that two meadowfoam glucosinolate derivatives found in seed meal (a waste product from the oilseed industry)are able to ameliorate UVB-induced DNA damage, modulate proliferation, and inhibit MMP expression in the skin microenvironment [76]. One split-face, prospective, double-blinded, controlled clinical trial was conducted with a cosmetic containing meadowfoam and onion preparations. After 12 weeks, there was a very significant reduction in tactile roughness, skin clarity, fine lines, and wrinkles. However, the fact that this product contained several botanical preparations does not allow drawing any conclusions about the role of meadowfoam extract [79]. "Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil" use has grown in 2018. However, the existing evidence is not enough to establish its efficacy as an anti-aging ingredient.

2.2.9.Glycyrrhiza glabra

Glycyrrhiza glabra is often described as a medicinal plant, and it is originally from the former Mesopotamia in the Middle East [80]. In 2011, only products containing the extract obtained from leaves were found. Plant leaves contain carotenoids, such as lutein and β-carotene, but also dihydrostilbenes, which were first found in this plant, and flavonoids, such as glabranin, licoflavanone, pinocembrin, and wighteone [81]. Both water-holding and permeability barrier function in the stratum corneum(SC) is essential for keeping skin moisture. Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum, which are composed mainly of cholesterol, fatty acids, and ceramides, play a crucial role in maintaining the function of SC. One study showed that licorice leaf extract not only promoted an increased hyaluronan production of mRNA expression levels of serine palmitoyltransferase and sphingomyelinase in vitro, which are involved in ceramide biosynthesis from keratinocytes, but it also promoted the syntheses of ceramides both in a 3D skin model and in human skin. Furthermore, licorice leaf extract increased the expression of mRNA for 3-hydroxy-3-methyl-glutaric-coenzyme A reductase, which is related to cholesterol biosynthesis—an essential component of the skin barrier. Together, these effects are proposed to reduce the dehydration that is characteristic of skin aging [82].

Contrary to 2011, in 2018, only cosmetic products containing root extract were found. The ethanol preparation from licorice showed a high antioxidant activity by ROS scavenging, hydrogen-donating, metal ion chelating, mitochondrial anti-lipid peroxidative, and reducing abilities. This was attributed to its high content in phenolic components, from which we highlight glycyrrhizin. Glycyrrhizin, the main constituent of licorice, is a guy-cyrrhetinic acid conjugate with two molecules of glucuronic acid 14]. Glycyrrhetinic acid, also known as enoxolone, is commonly used as a soothing agent in cosmetic products [83].

However, the isoflavonoid glabridin is the main compound from the hydrophobic fraction of licorice extract, and it has been shown to scavenge ROS and inhibit UVB-induced tyrosinase both in vitro and in vivo without affecting DNA synthesis [84,85]. Nonetheless, the reduced skin penetration and instability constrain the application of glabridin in cosmetic products [86]. Two clinical studies were found regarding cosmetic products containing glabridin in their composition. However, since glabridin was not the only active ingredient in these products, it is impossible to draw any conclusion regarding its effectiveness [87,88]. There are also flavonoids in licorice extract that act on tyrosinase inhibition, such as isoliquiritigenin, licuraside, isoliquiritin, and licochalcone A [14]. Liquirtin, on the other hand, is a flavonoid that does not act on tyrosinase but causes depigmentation mainly by dispersing melanin. One study showed that the topical application of a cream containing 2% and 4% liquirtin for four weeks was effective for the treatment of melasma, although both creams had a significantly lower efficacy than hydroquinone [89].

Overall, licorice extract was considered the depigmenting ingredient with the fewest side effects 90]. There is one clinical study including 12 individuals that tested the skin-lightening effect from the application of three creams containing 10, 20, and 40% licorice extract in different testing areas. There was a significant decrease in skin pigmentation after the use of all formulations, but their effectiveness was not significantly different with increasing concentrations [91]. Another small study evaluated the effects of a formulation containing 1% licorice extract on skin melanin and skin erythema. Licorice extract signifi-cantly affected skin melanin content but not skin erythema, compared with placebo [92].

Considering the evolution from the use of licorice plants in cosmetic products, it seems that it has decreased from 2011 to 2018, even though the industry is moving toward the use of the plant extract that presents the soundest scientific evidence, namely Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

This article is extracted from Molecules 2021, 26, 3584. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26123584 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/molecules