Research Progress in The Application Of Cistanche in Cosmetics

For more information:ali.ma@wecistanche.com

Hao Shanshan1, Chen Sumei2, Yan Donghai1, Chen Mingxia1, Han Yahui1, Yi Bin1,2

(1. Beijing Silian Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., Beijing 102600; 2. Jianchangbang Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., Fuzhou 344099, Jiangxi)

Abstract: The application research progress of Cistanche in cosmetics is reviewed. The main active ingredients of Cistanche are introduced, including phenethyl alcohol glycosides, polysaccharides, etc.,

And through a review of the main active ingredients of Cistanche in different species, different production areas, different harvesting periods, and different hosts, the differences in the main active ingredients of Cistanche under different conditions were clarified. The focus is on the beauty and skincare mechanism of Cistanche and the functions of Cistanche in cosmetics, including whitening, anti-aging, sun protection, antibacterial, and moisturizing. The application status of Cistanche in cosmetic raw materials and cosmetics in recent years was described, and the developmental defects and technical deficiencies in the application of Cistanche as cosmetic raw materials to cosmetics were analyzed. Finally, the future research direction of Cistanche in the field of cosmetics is pointed out.

Keywords: cosmetics; Cistanche; application

Chinese Library Classification Number: TQ658 Document Identification Code: A Article Number: 1006-7264 (2021) 09-036-06

DOI: 10.3969/j.issn.1006-7264.2021.09.009

Cistanche has been used in my country for more than two thousand years. It was first published in "Shen Nong's Materia Medica" and was listed as the top grade. Its taste is sweet, salty, and warm. It is known as "desert ginseng" and "Chinese fairy grass" [1]. Cistanche is rich in a variety of active ingredients and has health and beauty effects. The ancient records of Cistanche on health care and beauty include: "Long-serving for a long time", "moisturizing the five internal organs, growing muscles", "benefiting the marrow, delighting color, prolonging life", "replenishing the essence of the body, black face, straining" and so on. In recent years, the development and application of Cistanche in the field of cosmetics have been gradually carried out. Related scientific research has shown that it has good effects in whitening, anti-aging, sun protection, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing, and radiation protection. This article reviews the main active ingredients of Cistanche, its beauty and skincare mechanism, its efficacy in cosmetics, and its application status, and provides a theoretical basis for the further application of Cistanche in cosmetics.

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1 The main active ingredients of Cistanche

The active ingredients of the Cistanche desert have both volatile components and more than 100 non-volatile components that have been isolated, including phenethyl glycosides, polysaccharides, oligosaccharides, lignans, iridoids, flavonoids, alkaloids, Amino acids, trace elements, etc. Phenylethanoid glycosides and polysaccharides are the main active ingredients that have been studied in-depth and have significant neuroprotection, immune regulation, anti-oxidation, and other pharmacological effects [1]. At present, 70 phenylethanoid total glycosides have been isolated from Cistanche, among which echinacoside and verbascoside are the key phenethanol glycoside compounds to measure the quality standard of Cistanche [2]. The structural formulas of echinacoside and verbascoside are shown in Figure 1. The polysaccharides isolated from Cistanche include cistan A, CDA-1A, CDA-3B, CDP-4, ACDP-2, SPA, etc., mainly composed of glucose, galactose, rhamnose, arabinose, fructose, and other monosaccharides [3 ]. Studies have shown that factors such as different species and different origins will affect the content of active ingredients such as phenethyl alcohol glycosides and polysaccharides in Cistanche deserticola.

Fig.1 Structure of echinacoside and acteoside

1.1 Differences inactive ingredients of different species of Cistanche

There are about 20 species of Cistanche. There are 4 species and 1 variety in my country, namely Cistanche deserticola YC Ma, Cistanche deserticola YC Ma, C. tubulosa (Schenk) R. Wight, and C. salsa, CA Mey.) G. Beck), C. sinensis G. Beck and C. salsa var. albiflora PF Tu et ZC Lou [4]. Tu Pengfei et al. [5] qualitatively analyzed the phenethyl alcohol glycosides contained in 5 species of Cistanche in my country and quantitatively analyzed echinacoside and verbascoside. The results of the qualitative analysis showed that the phenethyl alcohol glycosides contained in desert Cistanche, Cistanche tubulosa, Cistanche salsa, and Cistanche salsa were similar, but the difference in Cistanche salsa was quite different. The results of the quantitative analysis showed that the contents of echinacoside and verbascoside in the 5 kinds of Cistanche are different, among which the salted cistanche has the highest content and the salsa has the lowest content.

1.2 Differences inactive ingredients of Cistanche in different origins

Traditional Chinese medicines are "authentic", and there are certain differences in the active ingredients of Chinese medicines from different places of origin. Liu Xiong et al. [6] determined the echinacoside content in Cistanche in the four producing areas of Zhangye, Gansu, Jingyuan, Xinjiang, and Inner Mongolia, and found that the mass fraction of echinacoside in the four producing areas of Cistanche was between 0.42% and 1.52%. Among them, Zhangye has the highest content and Jingyuan has the lowest content. Wang Guoping [7] found that the content of echinacoside in Cistanche from different origins in southern Xinjiang was significantly different, with a mass fraction ranging from 2.78% to 11.93%, and there were also differences in echinacoside content between cultivated and wild Cistanche in the same place of production. Xue Dejun et al. [8] compared and analyzed the polysaccharide content of Cistanche deserticola from different producing areas and found that the polysaccharide content of Cistanche deserticola from different producing areas was different, and the monosaccharide components of the polysaccharides were also different.

1.3 Differences inactive ingredients of Cistanche in different harvesting periods

The 2020 edition of the Chinese Pharmacopoeia stipulates that Cistanche should be excavated when the seedlings are just unearthed in spring or before the frozen soil in autumn [9], but the quality of the cistanche harvested in spring and autumn has certain differences. Qian Hao et al. [10] compared the contents of 4 phenylethanoid total glycosides, echinacoside, cistanche glycoside A, verbascoside, and 2'-acetyl verbascoside in Cistanche harvested in spring and autumn. The results showed that there were significant differences in the contents of the four components in Cistanche harvested in different seasons. Among them, the content of echinacoside and cistanche glycoside A was higher in cistanche harvested in autumn, and 2'-acetyl verbascoside and pine were found in cistanche harvested in spring. The content of fruit chrysanthemum glycosides is relatively high. Wang Xueyuan et al. [11] investigated the content of active ingredients such as echinacoside, verbascoside, and polysaccharides in Cistancheharvested in spring and autumn. The results showed that the total amount of echinacoside and verbascoside in Cistanche harvested in spring was more than three times that in autumn, reaching 12.21 mg/g, while the number of polysaccharides in cistanche harvested in autumn was significantly higher than that in spring.

1.4 Differences in the active components of Cistanche in different hosts

Cistanche is a perennial, root parasitic herb, parasitizing on the roots of host plants such as Haloxylon ammodendron and salt claw claws. Cistanche is closely related to its host, and the host plant transports nutrients and water for Cistanche. Zhang Xuan et al. [12] determined the contents of echinacoside and verbascoside in 3 different varieties, 5 natural hosts, and 2 cultivated hosts of Cistanche, and found that the same variety of different hosts of Cistanche contains the same amount of echinacoside and verbascoside. The content is significantly different. For Cistanche salsa, the order based on echinacoside content is: sugar beet>pipa chai>Suaeda phytocarpa (cultivation)>Salt claw; the order based on verbascar glycoside content is Suaeda physalis (cultivation)> Beet> Pipa Chai> Salt Claw Claw.

Cistanche has a good effect on skincare and cosmetic product

2 The beauty and skincare mechanism and efficacy of Cistanche

Studies have proved that Cistanche not only has a wide range of pharmacological effects but also has good effects on skin improvement and beauty.

2.1 Whitening

There is a saying in our country, "One white hide one hundred ugliness." White, smooth, and delicate skin have always been the goal pursued by oriental women. Therefore, the research and development of whitening agents have always been a key issue in the industry. At present, the research and development of whitening agents are mainly based on the inhibition of tyrosinase activity [13]. Compounds containing benzene ring or phenolic hydroxyl structure have potential whitening effects. For example, arbutin, a commonly used whitening agent, can exert a whitening effect by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase.

Phenylethanoid glycosides, the main active ingredient of Cistanche, are a class of natural glycoside compounds, which are formed by the connection of parent ribose groups, phenylacetic acid, and part of phenylethanoid through ester bonds and glycosidic bonds. Yang Jianhua et al. [14] found that the total phenylethanoid glycosides with a purity of 48.2% can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, and the effect on tyrosinase shows a competitive reversible inhibition. Later, Jianhua Yang's team [15] investigated the inhibitory effect of total phenylethanoid glycosides with a purity of 87.6% on tyrosinase activity and melanin production in human epidermal melanocytes. The results showed that the inhibitory effect of total phenylethanoid glycosides on tyrosinase was better than that of arbutin, with an IC50 of 716.51 µg/mL. Further research found that 400 µg/mL of total phenethyl alcohol glycosides can significantly inhibit the production of melanin, with an inhibition rate of 31.43%, which is equivalent to arbutin. At the same time, by separately comparing the inhibitory effects of 10 phenylethanoid glycoside compounds on melanin production, it was found that their inhibitory capacity was related to the number of phenolic hydroxyl groups and aglycones, the position of phenolic hydroxyl groups, steric hindrance, and the substituents on the parent ribosyl uronic group. related. And Yang Jianhua's team used microemulsion technology [16] and transfer body technology [17] to solve the problem of poor solubility and transdermal absorption of phenethyl glycosides, and guided the application of phenethyl glycosides in whitening cosmetics. YANG et al. [18] also found that Cistanche extract has a strong inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity, and the inhibition rate of Cistanche extract at 10 mg/mL on tyrosinase activity is as high as 78.5%.

2.2 Anti-aging

Aging is one of the most basic natural laws in the biological world. It is a gradual process in which all individuals will experience functional and organ decline over time. Skin aging develops simultaneously with the body's aging. As people's understanding of the skin aging mechanism continues to deepen, there are currently more than 30 theories on the mechanism of skin aging [19]. The effect of traditional Chinese medicine in delaying skin aging is mainly reflected in scavenging free radicals and repairing collagen.

YANG et al. [18] found that Cistanche deserticola extract can remove DPPH free radicals and has antioxidant capacity. At the same time, Cistanche extract can significantly reduce the expression level of collagenase and elastase mRNA, inhibit the activities of collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase, and has the effect of delaying skin aging. Studies have shown that the active ingredients of Cistanche, phenylethanoid total glycosides and polysaccharides, have certain effects on delaying skin aging. Table 1 shows the corresponding aging pathways of different active ingredients of Cistanche.

Phenylethanoids glycosides：

①Scavenge hydroxyl free radicals and superoxide anion free radicals, reduce the accumulation of reactive oxygen free radicals (RO S), and reduce RO S damage [20,21];

②Increase glutathione peroxidase (GS HP x), The activities of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT), reduce the content of malondialdehyde (M DA), and reduce the production and accumulation of lipid peroxide (LPO) [21,22];

③ increase Hydroxyproline content, promote collagen production [2 2];

④ regulate giant Immune cells such as phages, T cells, and NK cells affect interleukins

-2 (IL-2), interleukin-6 (IL-6), tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) and other cytokines production and release, improve the body's immunity, and delay cell senescence[23,24]

⑤By regulating the activity of NR F2 and RAC H1 transcription factors, it induces the gene expression of heme oxidase 1 (HM OX1) in keratinocytes, stimulates endogenous defense mechanisms, enhances cell protection, and reduces skin aging and oxidative stress Excitation damage [25].

Polysaccharides：

① Antioxidant effect, scavenging DPPH free radicals, hydroxyl free radicals, and A BTS free radicals [26], enhancing the activity of SOD, CAT, GSH-Px in the skin, reducing the content of M DA and lipofuscin, and reducing skin oxidative damage [27] ];

② Increase skin hydroxyproline content and enhance skin elasticity [28];

③Inhibit non-enzymatic saccharification reaction and reduce the production of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) [29];

④ Promote the proliferation of lymphocytes, enhance the activity of macrophages, and enhance the body's immune ability [30].

Others:

D-Mannitol can increase skin hydroxyproline content and reverse the LPO/SO D activity of old mice to normal adult mice[28]; flavonoids and phenolic substances have

Significant antioxidant effect [31].

2.3 Sun protection

As the research on skin damage caused by light continues to deepen, people's awareness of sun protection continues to increase. However, the sunscreens in sunscreen cosmetics currently on the market, including physical sunscreens and chemical sunscreens, have certain hazards and are difficult to meet people's needs. Broad-spectrum, safe and natural plant sunscreens have become a hot spot in current research.

The main active component of Cistanche has multiple benzene rings and conjugated structures in its molecule. Studies have found [32] that phenethyl glycosides have strong absorption at 280-380 nm and can be used as natural sunscreens to relieve the effects of ultraviolet rays on the skin. s damage. Sunscreens with 1% or 2% phenethyl glycosides have no adverse reactions and have good stability and light protection. FACING et al. [33] found that echinacoside can protect the skin from UVA/UVB-induced oxidative stress damage, remove free radicals, and prevent collagen degradation. ZHANG et al. [34] used UVB irradiation mouse skin damage model and human immortalized epidermal cell (HaCaT) damage model to further study the photoprotective effect and potential mechanism of echinacoside on UVB-induced skin damage. Experimental results in mice showed that topical echinacoside cream can significantly improve the skin lesions of mice caused by UVB, including edema, roughness, erythema, ulceration, wrinkles, thickening of the epidermis, disorder of dermal tissue arrangement, etc., and the improvement effect It is positively correlated with the content of echinacoside. The results of HaCaT cell experiments show that echinacoside has a significant protective effect on UVB-induced DNA damage and cell apoptosis. Echinacoside can increase the activity of SOD, CAT, GSH-Px in cells, reduce the content of MDA and ROS, exert an antioxidant effect, reduce oxidative damage of cells, prevent DNA fragmentation, and inhibit cell apoptosis; in addition, pine cones Chrysanthemum glycosides can down-regulate the expression of ATM/Rad3-related protein (ATR), Chk1, p53, caspase-3, and polyadenosine diphosphate ribose polymerase (PARP) in cells, reduce cell apoptosis, and Up-regulate the expression of XPA protein and promote DNA repair. AVILA et al. [35] studied the photoprotective effect of Verbascum glycosides and found that the protective effect of Verbascum glycosides on UVB-induced apoptosis was better than that of the sunscreen agent Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and the SPF value measured by the guinea pig model was 4 times more than Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. In summary, the phenethyl glycosides of Cistanche can not only absorb ultraviolet light, but also have the effects of anti-oxidation, repairing DNA damage, and reducing cell apoptosis, and have potential application value in sun protection cosmetics.

2.4 Antibacterial

Cosmetics are rich in nutrients such as oil, water, and protein, which are suitable for the growth and reproduction of microorganisms. Therefore, a certain amount of preservatives must be added to cosmetics to prevent spoilage. Compared with the commonly used chemical synthetic preservatives, traditional Chinese medicine preservatives have many advantages such as low toxicity, high safety, and natural origin, and are more popular with consumers.

Cistanche has a good antibacterial effect. Wang Xiaoqin et al. [36] found that the polysaccharides of Cistanche have a certain inhibitory effect on the growth of Tetraassus, Escherichia coli, Bacillus subtilis, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, and Penicillium citrinum. Du Rui et al. [37] found that Cistanche Decoction also has a significant inhibitory effect on Staphylococcus aureus. NAJEEB et al. [38] studied the antibacterial properties of the methanol extract, water extract, ethyl acetate extract, chloroform extract, n-hexane extract, and butanol extract of Cistanche (Salmonella typhi, Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus pneumonia, Klebsiella pneumonia, Proteus mirabilis, and Escherichia coli) and antifungal (Aspergillus fumigatus, Aspergillus niger and Aspergillus flavus). It was found that different extracts of Cistanche tubulosa have different antibacterial properties. The effect may be related to the different active ingredients contained in different extracts.

2.5 Moisturizing

Moisturizing is the basic requirement of skincare, and it is also an important condition to ensure skin health and delay aging. When the water content of the stratum corneum of the skin is maintained at 10%-20%, the skin is in the most ideal physiological state, soft, plump, shiny, and elastic; when it is less than 10%, the skin condition becomes worse, dry, rough, and long-lasting skin Dull, wrinkles appear. External moisturizing cosmetics can increase the water content of the stratum corneum, reduce water loss, and maintain the normal function of the skin barrier.

Studies have shown [39] that Cistanche extract has an excellent water holding capacity. After 30% of Cistanche alcohol extract is applied to the skin, the evaporation of water can be significantly reduced, and it can be used in moisturizing cosmetics. Fan Qianwen et al. [40] invented a Cistanche bulb extract containing a mixture of oligosaccharides and observed the levels of epidermal cells expressing in vitro protein, aquaporin (AQP-3), and hyaluronic acid receptor CD44 protein by fluorescent labeling. And then judge the water-locking performance of the extract. The results showed that the Cistanche bulb extract can significantly increase the expression level of three proteins in keratinocytes, improve the self-locking power of the epidermis, and bring long-term moisturizing effects. At the same time, mannitol, betaine, and allantoin contained in Cistanche are all classic moisturizing ingredients, which also suggests that Cistanche has moisturizing effects.

2.6 Radiation protection

All objects in nature, as long as the temperature is above zero, in the form of electromagnetic waves, constantly transfer heat to the outside. This way of transferring energy is called radiation. Radiation damages the skin, immune system, nervous system, hematopoietic system, etc., and even causes cancer and death. Natural anti-radiation active ingredients have become a current research hotspot.

Studies have found [41] that Cistanche has a strong protective effect against 60Coγ-ray radiation damage, and can improve the immune function of radiation-damaged mice. The mechanism may be through direct or indirect scavenging of free radicals and reducing the production of lipid peroxides. It is related to protecting immune organs, cells, and molecules. YANG et al. [42] found that Verbascum glycosides can eliminate ROS, reduce the ratio of Bax/Bcl-2, down-regulate the activity of procaspase-3, regulate the MAPK signaling pathway, protect skin fibroblasts from X-ray damage, and inhibit fibroblasts from declining. Death.

Cistanche has a good effect on skincare and cosmetic product

3 Application status in cosmetics

With the increasing recognition of Chinese traditional Chinese medicine culture in the world, “Chinese medicine cosmetics” which are known as “natural, safe and effective” have become the focus of general attention in the industry and are favored by consumers. Cistanche has a variety of functions such as whitening, anti-aging, sun protection, and moisturizing, and has been used in cosmetics to a certain extent. Zhao Yi et al. [43] disclosed whitening and anti-aging cosmetics containing Cistanche tubulosa extract and its preparation method. Cosmetics containing Cistanche tubulosa extract can enhance skin elasticity, reduce skin melanin content, and improve skin brightness. Many functional ingredients developed by Dongfang Miaosen all contain Cistanche extract. For example, the patented moisturizing material "Jiao Bei Hu" [44], through the "low temperature and constant time" extraction technology, extract natural macromolecular polysaccharides of peach gum, Dendrobium officinale, Tremella, and Cistanche, forming a spatial network structure of plant polysaccharide protection The membrane can make the skin soft and smooth. Another example is Nutri-Boost, the anti-aging material "Cordyceps Huiqing Extract". Through the principle of "Monarch and Advocate", the four Chinese medicines of Cordyceps, Matsutake, Dendrobium officinale, and Cistanche are scientifically compatible, which can effectively remove free radicals and resist skin oxidative damage. . Nutri-Boost has been used in DR PLANT Cordyceps rejuvenating and nourishing original liquid, which can replenish multiple nutrients to the skin and revitalize the skin. Herborist and Gaofu's brands of Shanghai Jahwa United Co., Ltd. have also added cistanche extract to many products, such as the patented ingredient "Hengyan Sancuifang" [45] made of cistanche, astragalus, and snow lotus 3 The refined Chinese medicine can prevent skin aging, especially photo-aging; Gough's Moisturizing Multi-effect Moisturizing Mask is added with the star moisturizing ingredient "Silk Road" which is a combination of four Chinese medicines: cistanche, astragalus, snow lotus, and Ophiopogon japonicus Water source element". From the application status of Cistanche in cosmetics, it can be seen that Cistanche has a wide range of application value in cosmetics under its natural advantages in Chinese medicine.

4 Conclusion

Cistanche, as a valuable Chinese medicine for prolonging life, beautifying, and beautifying the skin, has many functions such as whitening, anti-aging, sun protection, antibacterial, moisturizing, and radiation protection, and has been used in cosmetics. Although Cistanche has a certain application in cosmetics, there is still insufficient research on the active ingredients and mechanism of Cistanche. In the future, the research direction of Cistanche as a raw material for traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics can start from the following aspects: ① The main active ingredients of Cistanche are subject to species, origin, etc. Factors have a greater impact. The development of cosmetic raw materials requires attention to the control of its quality standards and industrial applications; ② Cistanche has a variety of skincare effects, but most of the research data is obtained from in vitro experiments, and human data needs to be supplemented; ③ The current applications of Cistanche are mainly It focuses on anti-aging and moisturizing effects, and is mainly based on compound raw materials containing Cistanche, with fewer applications for whitening, sunscreen, and other effects. Guided by traditional Chinese medicine theory, combined with modern science and technology, the single and compound applications of Cistanche are worthy of in-depth and systematic research. In summary, Cistanche has a variety of skincare effects, and it is worthy of further research by scholars to open up a broader world for its application in cosmetics.

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